From Rome to Geneva: Bvlgari Joins the Watchmaking Elite
Bvlgari Makes Its Watches and Wonders Debut with Two Statement Pieces
For the first time, Bvlgari has joined the Watches and Wonders line up, a landmark moment for the Roman house as it steps onto horology’s biggest stage. The debut is marked by two standout creations that showcase the Maison's distinctive blend of high jewellery and fine watchmaking; the boundary pushing Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, and the sculptural, diamond set Serpenti Aeterna, both of which I had the privilege to preview and try on at Watches & Wonders 2025.
Both watches reflect Bvlgari’s continued commitment to innovation, design, and craftsmanship. With over a decade of breakthroughs behind it, including 10 world records and more than a dozen proprietary movements, the brand’s Watches and Wonders debut feels well earned.
Serpenti Tubogas Watch, 18kt rose gold with diamond set bezel
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari and now also CEO of LVMH Watches, noted that the brand's presence in Geneva is more than symbolic. “This space allows us to express who we are, a Maison where Italian design and Swiss watchmaking meet with purpose,” he shared. As Bvlgari moves forward under the LVMH umbrella, its dual heritage in both jewellery and watchmaking continues to shape one of the most distinct voices in modern horology.
A New Skin - The Evolution of Bvlgari’s Serpenti
With 2025 marking the Year of the Snake, Bvlgari has chosen the perfect moment to revisit one of its most iconic motifs. Following the recent release of the automatic Serpenti, the new Serpenti Aeterna made its debut at Watches and Wonders 2025, a striking evolution of the serpent theme. These latest interpretations strip the design back to its purest form: a sculptural bangle, elegantly shaped in precious metals and adorned with diamonds. Minimalist in silhouette yet rich in symbolism, it’s a refined nod to Bvlgari’s heritage and its ability to move effortlessly between jewellery and watchmaking.
Like a serpent in transformation, the Serpenti Aeterna sheds its usual embellishments, no scales, no eyes, no ornate detailing. Instead, Bvlgari presents a refined silhouette: smooth, tapered, and architectural. “The serpent is distilled to its essence,” notes Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director. The result is a bangle style timepiece that reads more like fine jewellery than traditional watchmaking.
The first model is crafted in rose gold, snow set with brilliant cut diamonds, and finished with a rose gold crown encircled by smaller diamonds and a central stone. The high jewellery version is in white gold, featuring an emerald set crown and oversized diamonds that flow along the bracelet. Both house an arrowhead shaped, diamond paved dial and discreet nods to Serpenti’s past, including hexagonal scale motifs etched into the inner bangle, visible only to the wearer.
A modern evolution of a house icon, the Serpenti Aeterna is the most paired back interpretation yet, a striking new chapter in Bvlgari’s snake saga, which first began in the 1940s. Pricing has not yet been announced, but given the materials, expectations are high.
@Bvlgari
Ultra Thin, Ultra Ambitious: The New Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon has claimed the title of the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch, measuring just 1.85mm thick. This milestone marks Bvlgari's tenth world record in ultra thin watchmaking within the past eleven years, a remarkable feat that underscores the brand’s ongoing technical ambition. First introduced in 2014, the Octo Finissimo line has become a symbol of Bvlgari's ability to merge minimalist Italian design with Swiss mechanical precision. The new Ultra Tourbillon builds on this legacy, presenting a refined, pared-back aesthetic while achieving an extraordinary level of horological engineering.
Measuring just 1.85mm in total thickness, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is driven by Bvlgari’s hand wound BVF 900 calibre, a 40mm movement operating at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. Its open worked construction is designed to play with light, creating a sense of depth despite its ultra-slim profile. Finished with rhodium plating and anchored by a sunburst patterned tourbillon bridge, the piece delivers a clean yet complex visual experience, where every element serves both function and form.
Our preview session with Bvlgari offered a rare opportunity to experience the collection up close, and it didn’t disappoint. Behind the scenes, the MGBWATCHES team were able to get hands on with the new timepieces, and the level of detail, both technical and aesthetic, left a lasting impression. For a first showing at Watches and Wonders, Bvlgari delivered something considered, confident, and distinct. From the radical simplicity of the Serpenti Aeterna to the boundary-pushing Ultra Tourbillon, their debut didn’t just meet expectations, it set a new standard. We are already looking forward to what they have to offer next year.
