Cartier Brings Rare Watches and Clocks to the V&A

Reviewed on the first Members' Day – Full Exhibition Now Open

The Cartier Exhibition at the V&A London (Victoria and Albert Museum) is already one of the most talked about shows of the year. Officially opening to the public on Saturday 12th April 2025; the exhibition is completely sold out for the first six weeks. As members of the museum, we had the privilege of previewing the event on day one, and it’s safe to say, the hype is real. Most of the press will focus on the jewellery but we came for the watches and clocks because that's where the real stories are!

The exhibition is spread across three main rooms, each with it's own focus and atmosphere. The first, titled A World of Inspiration, is an extravagant opening. Stepping into the space felt like entering a chamber of treasures. Around fifteen display cases lined the room, each packed with lavish objects from across the globe, Egypt, India, Japan, France & beyond. What struck me immediately was the way Cartier absorbed so many visual languages, transforming them into something wholly unique.

Amongst these global references were some of the most breath taking timepieces I’ve seen. The Desk Clock on Inkstand from 1908, enamelled and set with sapphires and diamonds, balanced delicate craftsmanship with solid form.

Another, a Japanese Mirror Clock from 1945, used coral and lacquer in a way that made it feel sculptural rather than simply functional. There was a large Portique Mystery Clock shaped like a torii gate, owned by the Polish opera singer Ganna Walska, that completely blurred the line between spiritual symbolism and horological art.

The Egyptian Striking Clock from 1927, carved with hieroglyphs and rich in lapis lazuli, was a reminder of how far Cartier pushed into cultural storytelling. Even the Screen Clock, built around a Chinese jade panel from 1922, felt like something you might stumble across in a royal archive.

The second room brought us closer to the people behind the commissions. It was titled Client Interactions, and the energy shifted. Here the exhibition became more personal. Each piece was designed for someone, for a story, and you could feel it. Pieces for Royals, socialites and the famous! One of the first pieces that caught my eye was a desk clock from the early 1900s, originally commissioned for Queen Mary. It's detail is extraordinary—enamel layered over guilloché, set with ivory and diamonds. Today, it forms part of the Royal Collection and is lent by His Majesty The King to the V&A for this curated collection.

There was a brooch made for Queen Mary in 1930, loaded with colour and built with restraint. A pocket watch created in 1925 for Esme Mary ‘Molly’ Sorrett, the Rani of Pudukkottai, was housed in rock crystal and platinum, minimalist but rich with presence. One of my favourite pieces was the Column Gravity Clock, commissioned by the Maharaja of Patiala in 1927. With lapis, malachite, turquoise and coral, it was a technical marvel and a colour study all at once.

But perhaps the most poetic of all was the Elephant Mystery Clock, created for Maharaja Ranjitsinhji of Nawanagar. Balanced on a carved jade elephant, this clock was more like a storybook come to life. Every detail on it had intent, and even the way it was displayed encouraged you to stop and simply take it in.

The third and final room was the most focused. A Watches only Section. No embellishments, no distractions. Just Cartier doing what it does best. It felt quieter here, more reverent. I moved slowly, piece to piece.

The first Tank, dated 1920, was smaller than I expected. It didn’t shout for attention, it didn’t need to. It held its own through proportion alone. Not far from it was the very first Santos, created in 1915 in yellow gold. Seeing it in person, with its squared bezel and rounded lugs, you realise how radical that design must have been in its time. And yet, here it is, still feeling contemporary.

One of the most interesting surprises was a 1915 Tonneau watch, created for King Constantine I of Greece. Its curved profile and stretched dial gave it a sense of movement, even while still. Then there were cloche shaped cases, double strap designs, and an entire stretch of watches that mapped Cartier’s ability to lead, not follow.

There was a Must de Cartier from 1977, a symbol of colour, accessibility, and cultural shift. Next to it, a gold watch paper knife. Yes, a functioning blade with a working timepiece proudly displayed in the hilt in the hilt. So Cartier.

And just as I thought I’d seen everything, I turned a corner and found one final cabinet.

The Swinging London display. A mix of rebellion, charm and brilliance. It featured some of the most characterful watches of the show. A bracelet watch from 1938 in citrine and gold. A baguette bracelet watch owned by the Raja of Kapurthala, built from rubies and platinum. A platinum bracelet watch with a hidden cover from 1929, diamonds catching the light with every turn.

But the real surprise was the Carabiner Watch from 2024 – a modern piece, but very much in the spirit of the 60s. Covered in sapphires, emeralds, rubies, lapis and black spinel, it felt almost excessive, and yet,  balanced. Irresistible.

It was the perfect full stop to an exhibition that never once lost pace.

Cartier at the V&A is a walk through time, design and imagination. It is an exhibition that rewards patience, curiosity and attention to detail. I could have share another 100+ photos but we highly recommend you visit for yourself – this isn’t a story Cartier tells often. 

FAQs: Cartier at the V&A

When is the Cartier Exhibition at the V&A?
It opened in April 2025 and will run throughout the year. Timed tickets are required.

Is the Cartier Exhibition sold out?
Yes, the first six weeks were fully booked immediately. Keep checking the V&A website for additional ticket releases.

Where is the Cartier Exhibition held?
At the Victoria and Albert Museum in South Kensington, London.

Does the exhibition include watches?
Yes. The exhibition includes rare Cartier watches including the first Tank and Santos models, commissions for royalty, and modern experimental works.

Where can I read more?
To Read More on the full exhibition click here