Ceramic, Sapphire, and 25 Years of Chanel’s J12
To mark the 25th anniversary of the J12, Chanel has introduced a collection that blends technical finesse with artistic restraint: the J12 Bleu. Developed over five years, this new matte blue ceramic is not simply a colour, it is a philosophy. Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Chanel Watch Creation Studio, describes it as “a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue.” It is a subtle, elusive tone that feels as timeless as it is modern.
"It's not black. It's not white. It's Bleu."
Unveiled during Watches and Wonders 2025, the J12 Bleu collection stood out in a week dominated by high complications and bold statements. Chanel opted for quiet innovation, showcasing its continued commitment to both watchmaking excellence and aesthetic clarity. It was one of the fair’s most refined surprises.
The MGBWATCHES team were fortunate to attend an exclusive Blue Hour masterclass at Chanel’s Geneva flagship across Watches and Wonders, a private event celebrating the J12 Bleu’s launch. The experience offered a rare look into the Maison’s gem setting process, including the painstaking techniques used to set 58 baguette cut sapphires into bezels, and the high precision moulding and finishing of the matte ceramic cases. It was a reminder that behind Chanel’s elegant design is serious watchmaking innovation.
The collection includes nine limited pieces, ranging from petite quartz models to high complication showstoppers. The 33mm and 38mm variants are equipped with the Calibre 12.2 and 12.1 automatic movements respectively, developed in collaboration with Kenissi. COSC certified, these movements provide not only mechanical integrity but also a glimpse into Chanel’s growing horological depth.
Then there is the J12 Diamond Tourbillon Bleu, a flying tourbillon with a diamond set cage, exposed through a sapphire dial. It is the type of piece that sits at the junction of haute horologerie and high jewellery, without tipping too far into excess. Even the more minimal models offer a gem set option, replacing the hour markers with brilliant cut diamonds for those who prefer a quieter expression of luxury.
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Functionally, the ceramic cases remain as lightweight, scratch resistant, and as tough as ever; 7 times more resistant than steel to be exact! What sets these apart is the finish, matte rather than glossy, giving the watches a softness that is more tactile and more refined under changing light. It is not loud. It is considered.
Speaking with one of Chanel’s master watchmakers, we were taken through the meticulous six step process behind the creation of their signature ceramic cases. It all begins with raw materials, which are shaped using an injection process involving intense heat and pressure. From there, the case enters the debinding phase, where the binding agents used to mould the material are carefully removed. Next comes sintering, a high temperature treatment that fuses the ceramic particles and gives the case its incredible hardness. Once cooled, the machining process begins. This final stage includes precision shaping, polishing, smoothing and sandblasting, bringing the case to life with that distinct, flawless finish the J12 is known for.
In a time when so many ceramic watches aim for high contrast or high shine, Chanel has gone the other way. Understated, deliberate, and profoundly confident in its restraint. The J12 Bleu is not about shouting for attention. It is about rewarding it.
And that is what makes it one of the most compelling Chanel releases at Watches and Wonders 2025. To explore more of the nine J12 Bleu designs, click here.
