Cartier at the V&A: Our Highlights from the Exclusive Members Preview Day

“The Allnatt” is a 101.29-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond, Cartier Paris

We’ve just stepped out of the members’ preview for the new Cartier exhibition at the V&A  South Kensington and honestly, we’re still catching our breath. It's every bit as exceptional as you’d expect. 10 years in the making, Cartier hasn’t just opened the vault; they’ve laid out a masterclass in craftsmanship, history, and timeless design. From the moment you step inside, it’s clear this isn’t just a celebration of jewellery and watches, it’s a tribute to one of the most influential design houses in history. From iconic watches to impossibly intricate jewellery, every piece on display reminds you why Cartier is so much more than a luxury brand, it’s a cultural institution. Whether you're drawn to the Tank, the Panthère, or the Maison's lesser-known masterpieces, what’s on offer is nothing short of extraordinary. 

Cartier has long been the jeweller of choice for royalty, aristocracy, and tastemakers alike. Judging by what we saw, this exhibition is set to draw in collectors, creatives and connoisseurs in equal measure. Opening officially to the public this weekend, the showcase brings together over 350 pieces, each telling a story of design, innovation and impeccable taste.

Birds Nest Brooch, 1944 Cartier Paris

Helen Molesworth, co-curator of the exhibition, shared that the team worked closely with international museums, the Royal Collection, and an array of private collectors to assemble an extraordinary selection of pieces, many of which have never been seen by the public before. It’s this level of curatorial care that sets the exhibition apart. Rather than simply revisiting well-known icons, the showcase reveals the rarely told stories behind some of Cartier’s most historic commissions, family treasures, and one-of-a-kind creations. It’s a rare chance to see the depth and breadth of Cartier’s legacy through objects that, until now, have remained behind closed doors.

Cartier Lace Bow Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1906

The exhibition traces Cartier’s journey from its founding in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier through to it's rise as a global name under his grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who took the Maison from Paris to London and New York in the early 20th century. From royal commissions to red-carpet icons, Cartier became more than a jeweller. It became a symbol of status, artistry and forward-thinking design, worn by those who didn’t follow trends, they set them

Chinese Vanity Case, Cartier Paris, 1928

The first room of the exhibition, A World of Inspiration, sets the tone beautifully, offering a glimpse into how Cartier drew from global cultures to shape its distinct aesthetic. Here, intricate pieces shine under soft light, from richly enamelled clocks to the ornate vanity cases that once adorned dressing tables of the elite. The Chinese display case is especially striking, with each piece reflecting Cartier’s fascination with Asian art and craftsmanship. Our favourite was the 1928 vanity case, inspired by a Chinese porcelain plate from Cartier’s own collection. With its detailed lacquer work, coral clasp, and delicate jade inlay, it’s a masterclass in cross-cultural design, elegant, deliberate, and undeniably Cartier.

Grace Kelly's 10.48ct Emerald Cut Engagement Ring, Cartier Paris, 1956

The second room, Client Interactions, pulls back the curtain on the intimate relationships between Cartier and some of the most iconic figures of the 20th century. It’s here that the storytelling deepens, with pieces that feel as personal as they are precious. Grace Kelly’s engagement ring takes centre stage, an emerald-cut diamond so elegant it still stuns, decades later. Nearby, Jackie Kennedy’s classic Cartier watch is displayed with quiet dignity, its simple design a stark contrast to the weight of history it carries. These aren’t just objects of beauty, they’re reminders of Cartier’s role in shaping personal moments that became part of cultural memory.

The third room, titled Rituals of Power and Display, is a glittering showcase of Cartier’s most regal creations, tiaras that once graced queens, princesses, and aristocrats from around the world. Stepping into the space feels like entering a private treasury, with each piece lit like a crown jewel in its own right. It really does take your breath away. The craftsmanship is astonishing, delicate platinum frameworks, perfectly set diamonds, and motifs ranging from classical scrolls to naturalistic floral forms. It’s not just the scale that impresses, but the elegance and restraint. These aren’t tiaras made to overwhelm, but to enchant. Each one tells a story of status, ceremony, and the quiet confidence of high jewellery worn at its most formal. 

Design for a Golden Fleece panther brooch, Cartier Paris, 1949

The Panthère

The Cartier panther has long prowled the world of high jewellery, a symbol of elegance, power, and timeless style. First appearing in 1914 as a spotted pattern on a wristwatch, the panther motif evolved under the bold direction of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s legendary creative director, who transformed it into a full-bodied feline by the late 1940s. Worn by icons like the Duchess of Windsor, the panther became a statement of confidence and modern femininity. At the V&A’s new exhibition, the history of this iconic design is brought to life with striking clarity. We were especially captivated by the 1949 panther brooch designed for the Duke of Windsor, part of the Golden Fleece commission, its sculptural detail and sense of movement truly set the tone for the rest of the collection on display.

Crash wristwatch, Cartier London, 1967. Cartier Collection. 

A Legacy in Motion: Cartier’s First Timepieces Take Centre Stage

THE TANK, Cartier Paris, 1920, Sapphire, Platinum, gold leather strap

One of the standout moments of the exhibition was seeing Cartier’s earliest timepieces brought to life. From the pioneering Santos to the unmistakable shape of the first Tank, it’s a reminder that Cartier didn’t just follow trends, they set them. These pieces aren’t just historic; they still hold their own today, both in design and significance. For anyone with a passion for watchmaking, this section alone is worth the visit.  

As we stepped back out into South Kensington, there was a shared sense among the crowd, despite the bustle, the queues, and the inevitable jostling for the best view, this exhibition was absolutely worth it. Cartier: The Exhibition is a rare chance to stand face to face with some of the most important pieces of jewellery design ever created. Yes, it was crowded, hardly surprising on the first members’ day, but that only added to the sense of occasion. To witness such craftsmanship up close, from legendary tiaras to intimate sketches, is something truly special. It’s not just a display, it’s an invitation into the heart of Cartier’s story, and one we won’t soon forget.

If you’d like to experience it for yourself, we highly recommend making time to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. It’s a rare chance to see Cartier’s legacy up close. To book your visit and step into a world of design, heritage, and unmistakable style, click HERE. (Open to the public from April 12th- November 16th 2025)

Once you've taken in the treasures on display, if you want to treat yourself to a souvenir, you can visit the exhibition shop HERE with lots of merchandise on offer including The Cartier Tank Watch book by Franco Cologni. (Members receive 20%)